17 May 2005

Le Puy to St.Privat d'Allier 22k

Something Liz had eaten yesterday violently disagreed with her so we had a disturbed night. Things seem to have calmed down and we are ready for an early start. Our luggage is being transported for us between stops although it must be said that many of the younger and fitter walkers carry their belongings, including bedrolls, in big backpacks. So each day our clearly labeled bags have to be downstairs early for collection and will hopefully reappear when we arrive at our next stop. Rather a solemn breakfast as all thoughts are concentrated on the unknowns of the day. We set off at 8.
The route is clearly marked with the 'balise' symbol at frequent intervals
and leads from a square down the slope from the Cathedral back up a long slope through residential streets past the (seems appropriate) 'elastic bandage' factory and out of town on a broad track. Lots of other starters of all shapes and sizes including some children. People chat amiably between puffs and the steeper climbs spread out the pack.

Beautiful countryside as soon as you leave town
and as we start up onto the Massif Central. Notable are the wild flowers on the wayside verge - not chemically blasted into oblivion. Meadows filled with wild narcissus and much else, all in beautiful growth. Endless birdsong. Puy is already one of the higher points on the walk at 625 metres but today we go up another 425 metres before descending.
[I am not too sure why the 'Elevations Chart' reads from right to left, like oriental script? Is that a convention?]

Before La Roche we stopped for a cup of tea from two enterprising youngsters who had set up a drinks stall on the path. French entrepreneurship lives. We bought the necessities for our picnic lunch in the village of St.Christopher sur Dolaison which we ate around the memorial cross in Ramourouscle.

After 18k some were calling it a day but we had one more long uphill slog, and a subsequent steep descent before we reached St.Privat. 24k or 16 miles was plenty for a first day.

La Vielle Auberge, with a rusty piece of modern sculpture outside and our baggage safely inside, was clean and appropriate - pilgrims must be their only business - and we enjoyed a simple supper: salad, trout, cheese, baked Alaska and a bottle of white Burgundy. Bed by 9pm quietly satisfied, if genuinely weary, stiff and footsore after our first day's walking.