19 May 2005

Saugues to Le Faux, about 25k

A very pleasant breakfast with fresh fruit, charmingly served, after a disturbed night - possibly that excellent cheese! We were on our way by 7.45am having bought a couple of quiches for lunch. Amiable waves from passers-by and motorists as we left the town to stroll up through gentle farmland. There were quite a lot of hills in the course of the day which we tended to plod up without regard to the views until we got to the top. Then it was flat with endless small fields with lots of wild flowers and cows. We passed small hamlets dependent on marginal farming with a bit of timber harvesting and processing. It is truly beautiful countryside and we are lucky to have seen it and to have the memories. But the population flight from the land is very apparent. Des doing well with the map-reading and general navigation. He has the knack of being able to read as he goes along without tripping over loose stones.

We had a lovely picnic spot at a crossing of the river Verlange by a stone bridge. Afterwards some snoozed or cooled their feet in the water according to taste.











Then our path led up the main road past an (optional) turning off for Le Sauvage, former domain of the Knights Templars, not at all as isolated, in the Spring sunshine, as the guide books might imply. We passed the St.Roch fountain and chapel and refuge - a 19c replacement following a hurricane so it probably does get a bit bleak up here. Then a generally easy path off road down towards Rouget and St.Alban. But a turning was signed off to the left down a dusty path for Hotel Restaurant L'Oustal de Parent at Le Faux. What a discovery and what a plus - a newly restored stopping place just off the route in the right location. A massive granite house complex in the sunshine was very welcoming. Bare floors and rustic charm and family run. Our luggage was already upstairs. A couple of cold beers on arrival never tasted better. Bags of space and nice clean rooms although the dimples on the shower floor are a bit hard on tender feet!

After a rest we sat in the garden before supper while the sun went down and the birds quietened. A noticably 'Southern' feel to the place. An early start tomorrow might be appropriate as temperatures of 27 degrees are forecast. Excellent supper of vegetable soup, boeuf bourguignon, cheese, and plum and egg custard, with a bottle of Cote du Rhone; all done with professional aplomb. This new venture deserves to succeed.