selling a lovely chewy baguette (I shopped for lunch). Our taxi arrived promptly at 8.30am and we were ready to carry on walking from the Chapelle d'Olhaiby by 9am, in light rain. We passed through open countryside and were mostly on minor roads today and the rain brought out large earth worms, up to 18" long (smelly when squashed by passing cars).The farms were gradually turning from beef/dairy to sheep as the land became more 'Alpine' in
character. The sheep were noticeably clean - perhaps washed by all the rain? We pressed on, spurred by guide book promises of a café at Larribar but alas that was not to be and a water stop had to suffice.A couple of kilometers uphill took us from the river Bidouze (very full) to Hiriburia where the
Stèle de Gibralter monument was erected where the routes merge.Coincidentally as we stood there we were joined by a rangy Dutchman who had come via the Route de Vezelay (through Limoges) having started off 1700k ago in Holland, We have done some 700k of our route so far and felt duly humbled. From the monument you can see the direction in which you are pointed - a further stiff 500' rise up a flinty track - in fact quite enjoyable in the breeze. So we were glad to arrive at today's highest spot at the little Chapelle de Soyarza. There was water point which we enjoyed and a ring of plane trees had been severely trained in the French fashion to make a cordon, or halo, or crown of thorns around the chapel. Some comfortable seats encouraged a pause.
Then an equal distance downhill took us to the little village of Harambeltz. The small unused church with the Baroque interior is owned privately by the 4 families of the village, one of them allegedly since 950AD. We met up again with the large French party we last saw in Navarannx who rather took up the available picnic space, so having looked at the church interior through the grill door we moved on.
But that served us well. At the bottom of a grassy track we found a large hut that had been built for the use of a local hunting club for their social activities: two large and very sturdy tables and equally strong benches could cater for perhaps 50 people in relative comfort and gave the impression of many important gatherings having taken place here.
And then it was on to Ostabat which really was a meeting
place of the Routes in the middle ages with overnight accommodation, it is said, for 5,000. The village is now a shadow of that but in course of serious renewal. It looks as though it could have lots of snow over winter and the buildings are fairly massive. We had coffee in an excellent bar where 'mine host' in his beret was straight out of central casting as he directed events and chatted with all. Des and I inspected the village while the girls walked on.The South African lady was in the rather ponderous 19c (?) church and is spending the night in the village. Her friend is 10 days ahead of her in Spain from where she reports 'rain'.Our Hotel Espellet was easily found as we entered Larceveau - fairly spartan and like Ostabat with shades of simple skiing territory. Mine host welcomed us and quickly got the 'pressions' out. There was a washing machine available for guest use in the laundry room to add a sense of purpose to the rest of the afternoon, with elaborate clothes lines arranged under cover but with plenty of wind. I had a long chat there with a man from Lille who had been given two months leave of absence by his wife to walk as far from Le Puy as he could provided he kept his washing up to date. (His washing came out blue).
Supper was delayed while we watched Munster beat Toulouse in the Heineken Cup Final. We were the only Munster supporters but all was well and the staff then coped well with over 50 diners seeking to sit down simultaneously. There were at least two large tables of local families out for their Saturday night sociable gathering.
To bed late as tomorrow is a short day!
