17 May 2006

Nasbinals to St Chély d'Aubrac 17k

A night of bells. The church tower next door sounded every hour on the hour - twice! At least it was a well-tuned bell. I suppose it was reassuring in a way to have its company during the hours of darkness. Or perhaps it accounts for the 'flight from the land' as people escape its hourly reminder of mortality. Made it easy to get up at 6.45am. Then the Angelus at 7!!!

Substantial breakfast in the front bar, efficiently served and as much as you wanted of bread, cake, croissants etc. Even a big basket of oranges.
We were on the road at 8.10 with Des having loaded up with bread and cheese (and a small bottle of wine) for lunch. Gallently he claims to be in training for his Annapurna trip to justify carrying more than his share.

The walk today was lovely, little more than 11 miles and arriving at our destination at 2.15. There were 5 or 6 stimulating ascents (we will not reach this height again until the Pyrenees) and then a significant descent in the final quarter. So we were saying farewell to the high plateaues, but the day linked seamlessly with last year. Indeed it is hard to believe we have only been back on the trail for a day. We all seem to be coping well.

The alpine wild flowers are
just as we remembered them from last year. We could be more precise in identifying them this year and have brought books!

St Chély is small - 240 people; it used to have 700. Most migrated to Paris over the years for work. There are few men now visible round the village, just capable middle-aged women. Perhaps the men who are left are working with the cattle.


We took advantage of our early arrival to rinse out some clothes, shower and take a stroll. The small church also had double banked balconys.
Although the Café de la Marie could offer us beer - and did - for the football tonight (Arsenal/Barcelona) we will have to use the front parlour at the hotel (de la Valee). Nice supper with lots of vegetables, including the potage or cruditees, and accompaniments to the roast pork. Among the cheeses served was the local Thon branded Laguiole. The local sweetish bread is La Fouace, a bit like brioche (with a hint of orange?). Gaillac to drink.