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A long day. I feel good now after a friendly supper but from 9-4 it was GRIM!
As promised we had light rain as we started and pretty well non-stop all day. After leaving town we followed four quad bikes up a forested path now reduced to clinging mud. Basically for the first 10k today whenever we were off road it was sticky, skiddy and dangerous. We were effectively moving at half speed which threatened to turn a six hour day into 12 hours. Our wet weather gear was generally effective although visibility from the hoods was not great. You really got the impression that the route had been put together just to avoid the main roads - there is a D road virtually direct from Lauzerte to Moissac. There was really little of interest or variety as we walked along farm tracks and a succession of tough muddy climbs.
We bumped into Bob from Worcester from time to time and he took our photo at the '400k from Puy' mark.
We struggled into Durfort Lacapelette and stopped for coffee in the local bar - we were not especially welcome in our bedraggled state. Having spoken in passing about conditions to the English proprietor of the local St Martin gite we resolved to stick to the road for the rest of the day. As it was a Bank Holiday the roads were not particularly busy although visibility was not good. Meanwhile I wrote down the telephone number of the local taxi - just in need. We also put our jackets on under our cagoules as by now there was the risk of actually getting too cold.
At one point we were intermingled with a larger
group of walkers who seemed to be under the direct guidance of a travelling leader. For example they were directed to a nearby barn for a prearranged lunch. We meanwhile stopped on a nearby bridge parapet in a light drizzle for a wet sandwich. And then basically more dull plodding through wretched suburbs into Moissac by about 3.30pm, earlier than previously hoped.The route took us directly to our hotel,Le Chapon Fin, in the town centre behind the distinctive and very Italianate, market building. We hobbled in and up for hot showers and a lie down until our baggage arrived about 5.30. We put on dry clothes to go for a stroll. Des proposed a visit to the splendid Abbey church and the local canal "going over the river". The latter we never found but the church was interesting with the interior completely covered in a Moorish(?) pattern of grey trellis on
yellow, heavily and regulerly restored where the passing millions insist on touching such unusual decoration. After a dull and depressing day the carved statues in the church, particularly of some earlier travellers, were colourful and uplifting.
We had our steak/frites supper in the brasserie attached to the hotel as sleep beckoned. The girl on the front desk, who had been most helpful in arranging for us to hang all our wet clobber in the boiler room to dry, assured us that a) tomorrow would be dry and warm, and b) the route along the canal path would be peaceful, shaded and dry underfoot.