Cajarc to Limogne-en-Quercy 20k

This is to be a fairly gentle day after the consecutive rigours of the last two. Late breakfast ready laid in the dining room. The only remaining guests were the three German bikers. But at another table were the six-man team from the dustbin lorry outside having their 8am lunch break! They were tucking in enthusiastically to a full meal starting with the excellent soup we enjoyed last night. The courses flowed as did the red wine and it was interesting to watch the different characters among them: the boss man had a large squat nose. They were obviously completely at home as they served themselves from behind the bar. Easy familiarity with our hosts who joined them for coffee.

As we shopped for lunch essentials we chatted to a French Canadian couple who are also doing the walk. In general flat fast walking characterized the day. We met a number of those we had seen previously (including 'Joan Collins' and her 3 Swiss companions + their two large dogs who actually find long distance walking hard).

At Gaillac we descended temporarily to cross the Lot. There was intensive cultivation of Strawberries under polytunnels with the plants suspended inside in plastic 'sausages'. We talked to the lady doing the picking who was proud to tell us that her son, an engineer, was living in Rochester, Kent. Meanwhile Liz and Clare bought a box of strawberries at the nearby farm shop which we subsequently had for elevenses.

We then marched on through the 'Cause' - a distinctive, arid countryside, through stunted oak forest in poor neglected condition. the stony soil is fit for very little and in the course of this passage we passed no more than two or three farms of any worth.





It was a day for butterflies, blue, black, yellow, brown chasing each other. Insects in Richard Scarry -like profusion particularly in the meadow where we had lunch. Orchids so frequent as not to merit comment.









We passed a number of old communal lavoirs where the washing was done on stones and various old water pumps, some in working condition. Efforts were occasionally made to get a crop of potatoes or maize from fields thickly sprinkled with stones.

We arrived at 3 o'clock at Limogne via a 'botanical walk' down a shaded walled avenue. This was early for our gite (Bastide de Venel, Francoise and Jean-Pierre Gavens) which was not opening until 4 o'clock. A large red-tiled stone building in its garden, with lilac shutters. Bang on time, as the clock struck, Madame G. threw her doors open with a theatrical flourish. We were then extensively welcomed with something of a matinee performance: instructions as to hanging of washing, leaving of boots in racks, hanging of keys and breakfast arrangements - before rooms were allocated. Everything was spick and span and very tranquille.

Supper at the Bar/Restaurant Le Quercy was simple and well done with a nice bottle of Cahors. In the dining room we were joined by a large party from the local Gite communal.

Ready for bed in our nice clean rooms although nothing like so tired as yesterday.