around the gite earned its keep with fairly continuous rain. Plenty of church bells at 7am and we were downstairs with bags by 7.30. A few others were up before us for the self service breakfast - all heading for an early start, perhaps to avoid the rain. Some hope! For the first time on our trip we broke out the cagoules & other wet weather gear and soon very much looked the part of the Winterreise wanderer. Geoff in particular achieved a strikingly gaunt appearance in his hooded cape - and shorts.On the road by 8.15am. Sue and I chatted music for 1 1/2 hours and what would otherwise have been a long plod in the wet passed quickly. The plastics kept one adequately dry, certainly in a gentle drizzle. Although you get condensation, or even osmosis, particularly when your inner layer is just a shirt it was generally felt that this was the cooler option. Quite a steep rise in the mud soon after starting and then a steady flat stretch to Montcuq. We passed a minor miracle at a farm where a stand allowed us to help ourselves to excellent 'miel et citron' lemonade and where we bought a bottle of the local rosé. We could have legitimately bypassed Montcuq but we went in for a cup of coffee, and for some an early ham baguette: required to remove boots before entering cafe!
We pressed on in the rain, off road, and not long after
we had a brutal steep slippery climb in the mud. At one point a blue rope was provided by way of handrail but it was really hard going with much use of stick - two would have been better. On the plateau we stopped shortly afterwards more for a rest than lunch, quite exhausted by climbing in those conditions. Some had bread and cheese and the rosé wine proved surprisingly good and refreshing. After resting, and mirabile dictu the rain stopped, we pressed on and we could walk in shirtsleeves.The day alternated between plateaus and the river valleys of the Merdanson, and the Lendou, ultimately tributaries of the Barguelonne and then the Garonne. There were lots of small ascents and descents and meanderings and progress was surprisingly slow in these conditions. The agriculture was noticeably better than recently, not just stronger vines and fields of sunflowers
but many other fields of grain, and even a good crop of onions.The final mile or two into the fortified town of Lauzerte, which we could see on its hilltop from afar, was on hard road. The town is dramatically located and is another beautifully restored gem. Our Hotel du Quercy was fine, located outside the walls. It was run by a young man whose wife runs an English bookshop in Cahors and he served us excellent cold beers initially and subsequently an entirely enjoyable supper he prepared himself: good vegetable and bean soup, salmon quiche, pork chop, ice cream.
Des and I had a quick tour up in the medieval town centre, - like a charming but empty museum or beautiful film set. The square had been restored with cobble stones in an amusing way.
But....another major issue with Tranbaggage. Our bags did not appear until 7.30pm after many phone calls, promises and excuses. Even the hotel manager was offering us the use of his aged parents to collect them from Lascabanes and bring them over. He himself was driving to Toulouse airport in the morning and he offered to take them on himself to Moissac, an offer retracted only after he saw their number and weight. We had to tell Alexandra that Tranbaggage were in danger of spoiling the trip. She has elicited a promise that tomorrow will be better.More rain is forecast.
