18 May 2007

Moissac to Avillar 20k


Because it was to be a short day (20k = 4 1/2 hours) we agreed to leave late and it was gone 9 when we left, due east along the south bank of the canal "de Golfech", part of the taming of the Tarn and the Garonne rivers following immense floods in former times. The rivers accompanied us on the other side of the path. This was straight and flat, surfaced and shaded. Vast areas of fruit orchards surrounded us in the rich alluvial soil as the sky turned from grey cloud to blue sunshine.

We stopped for coffee in a tacky bar in Malause and subsequently
for lunch on the terrace of a friendly bar in quiet Pommeric. They did not do food but were happy to supply beer while we made our own sandwiches from provisions bought next door. We chatted to an English couple who had done "parts" of the walk and were now on a canal boat holiday.This is part of the canal route from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean.

From Pommeric we walked back across the agricultural plain - strawberries being picked - to the very prettified/over-restored village of Espalais. We passed some who were doing (some of?) the walk on horseback. We then passed by bridge over the very slow-moving Garonne (which is obviously carefully controlled via canals etc) into Gascony.


Then a a short vicious climb up to Auvillar town centre, through the charming market square with a distinctive circular market building, to find our Hotel de l'Horloge, inevitably next to the clock tower. The hotel was closed until 4pm so we had a cold drink nearby under a Mulberry tree while we waited. When we got our rooms we showered and rested until the bags arrived and afterwards strolled round the town - it likes to be known as one of the 100 most beautiful villages in France. The church was not very interesting but the town was an immaculate exhibit with every square metre tidily restored. We went to the opening of an exhibition of local art, but "13c Local Floorboard Dipped in Lead" didn't do much for me.

Dinner was quite elaborate: Fois gras and Prune Pate, Cassoulet baked in individual bowls, Strawberries (local - we had passed them being picked!) and cream. Interesting local wines. After some cards we were all ready for bed with a long day ahead tomorrow.