18 May 2006

St Chély d'Aubrac to Espalion 22k

"What a difference a day makes". Yesterday beautiful sunshine and cheerful; today gloomy weather most of the way and a bit of a slog. Nice breakfast after a good rest - could just hear the bells. Shopped for usual lunch provisions including Laguiole cheese (went a bit sweaty in the dark depths of Des's knapsack) and 1/2 bottle of Figeac. It was a typical morning stride out in the dew up by the cemetery after the old bridge. A 10 minute hike gave us a nice backwards view to the old town. No doubt those emigrants to Paris would remember it fondly.

A succession of pleasant undulating paths both open and wooded with the bounce of turf underfoot. The examination and identification of wild flowers intensified. At one point Liz dramatically tripped and splattered herself on a downwards path in the woods. It could have been bad but with no harm done she was soon hoisted up and hopping about. Plenty of mud on her clothes and bragging potential re the bruises on her arm.

We came to an opportunity to carry on the D587 direct to St-Come-d'Olt.
Although earlier editions of Alison Raju's book fail to point it out you are now encouraged to take a longer route there back up into the countryside via Le Rosiere. It is steep up and steep down so Des and I did it while the girls saved their feet and took what they claimed to be an equally valid route straight into town. So they had a beer while we saw a few more poppies and got in a bit of extra exercise. As we then couldn't find them despite phone calls we all got a bit grumpy and stopped for our picnic lunch on a road that seemed, not ideally, to lead to the town dump. Needless to say moments after restarting we passed some excellent picnic sites. Our afternoon was a pacey march on a straight road with little merit other the accompanying sound of the river Lot as we followed its valley. Olt incidentally is an old spelling of Lot.

Espalion is a town of severe contrasts. A main road, brutally
inserted across the old town, takes the traffic down a fume laden main street, where unfortunately our hotel (Moderne) was located. By contrast the old streets either side are charming and full of architectural pleasantries.; and the old bridge 50 meters upstream and now closed to motor traffic is a thing of beauty, subject no doubt of a thousand paintings.



We were all stiff and sore after a long day and after showers and recovering we had teas and beers in a small place that became increasingly comfortable. Back at our hotel, which was actually much more pleasant inside than it promised from the road we had a simple supper of which the high spots were the Oignon Tarte starter and the roast pork. Chateau Eugenie (Cahors) with supper but also lots of water as we were a bit remiss about liquid levels today. We played cards in the front lounge but were ready for bed by 10 - to discover a rather dramatic blister on my big toe which may require primitive doctoring. Liz seems to be no worse for wear after her tumble.