We had an initial hike up out of Espeyrac, inevitably, and although there was further upward progression it was never unreasonable. Plenty of variety of walking surface, mostly through good farmland. Lovely views over green, wooded undulating valleys. We passed through a couple of snug hamlets on the way and saw a donkey that forecast thunder - according to a French-speaking gentleman with a splendid moustache and two lady companions (previously seen outside the church of St.Pierre de Bessuejouls two days ago - see photo of that post). We saw the beautiful modern glass in the church at Senergues. The farms here have different breeds of cattle from those seen in Aubrac.Conques is safely hidden in a deep valley with a steep final
descent into it (and presumably ascent out next Tuesday) and picturesque and therefore touristified. But not overwhelmed with numbers at this time of year even on a Sunday. We arrived at midday just as the Abbey was discharging the congregation after Sunday Mass. A fine organ voluntary filled every void. So we stopped for lunch in a little cafe opposite the Abbey doors while we enjoyed all the activity. It also gave us the opportunity to admire the famous carved tympanum above the door and the solid Romanesque lines overall.As we finished our meal we saw and invited to join us the tall thin Englishman spotted previously. His name was Christopher van Kampen and we swapped notes on our adventures to date. He is spending tonight with the friars in the Abbey. Our accommodation is booked at the nearby Hotel St Jacques.
The harassed proprietor - middle of Sunday lunch - says we should have been told the hotel is full. However we have been found rooms in a nearby Chambres d'Hote with the Gaillac family (tel: 05 65 72 82 10). And very nice it is, with magnificent red roses round the door. We have a big spacious airy double-aspect room with views of the abbey and the surrounding woods. Madame herself happily hoists one of our bags up herself in a cheerful, realistic and welcoming way. We are promptly offered the use of the vine-shaded linen line in the sun below should we need to do washing as we are here for two nights. Most importantly she advises that the bells of the church stop at 10.30pm and don't restart until 7.15am. Indeed tomorrow is a holiday so they may be even later to give the abbey monks (there are 5 of them aged 38-78) a lie in!In the very warm late afternoon sun we strolled around the town to take in the sights. There is a Rocamadour feel to the tourist-orientated shops. Every view is carefully regulated such that it could all appear in a period film tomorrow. We watched as the husband of 'Lily the Limp' filmed her painful arrival on her two sticks into Conques. We have seen them previously and she is certainly finding it a pilgrimage! We and perhaps 30 others joined the monks for vespers at 6.30pm. Dinky French hymns and a nice pipe organ in a corner of this vast space.
We hadn't booked for supper at the Hotel St Jacques (it's really more an auberge) but when we ordered champagne (to celebrate a successful first week with Liz's Premium Bond winnings) a nice table was found on the terrace. Our fellow traveler with the moustache was much impressed! Gastronomically our meal was a turning point in that we had gesiers for starters and Aligot with sausage for our main course, thus combining the hill country we have left behind (?) with the warm Southwest. A nice bottle of Cahors cut through the fat.
The bells outside have just rung 10. Hopefully that's their lot!
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