Aire sur l'Adour to home

Early start as planned. Taxi on time at 7am and the Moroccan driver took 40 minutes to get to Pau airport. On the way we got a great view of the Pyrenees with glistening white snow caps in the sunshine. Ours was the first flight of the day and we did some judicious pre-weighing of bags to adjust for Ryanair's tight restrictions - our backpacks were well filled and we wore our boots! Flight uneventful and Woking taxis were on hand to meet us (£120), Heavy M25 traffic getting home where all was well.

it has been a good couple of weeks. Again Des was fitter than the rest of us, the girls suffered quietly with aches, blisters and fatigue and I was able to do all that was asked. It was a shame the weather was so bad particularly for the Todds in week 1, when we have had scarcely a drop of rain previously. It is undoubtedly a very different experience "just walkin' in the rain......"

Nogaro to Aire sur l'Adour 28k

Awoke at 6.15 following a night of heavy rain. The lawns by the hotel are awash. Bags packed and we gather for breakfast. After some debate the decision is unanimously taken to abandon the days walk:
- conditions will be very difficult in the rain and underfoot, and the forecast is not good,
- Clare and Liz are not keen on spending up to 7 or 8 hours walking in the rain and it would not be satisfactory if just some of us do it,
- we would have to stick to the road throughout, which would not be pleasant in the traffic
- we can always do it next time.

But there is a general sense of shared regret that we are "failing" to meet our objectives because it is after all a bit more than just a pleasant holiday.

So we order a taxi for 11 o'clock to take us to Aire and meanwhile Des and I don our capes and walk into town. We saw Nogaro after all! We visited the old and modest church, bought some newspapers and had a coffee in a bar that also doubles as the town bookmakers. As we returned we passed a circus on the edge of town having difficulty extricating itself out of the mud. As we rejoined the women we saw the group of young men who had been gathering last night with special shaped luggage and they turned out to be bullfighters - I had seen one early this morning scrubbing his cape and I must say I thought he was hotel staff scrubbing a sunshade. They left the hotel all costumed up but returned later as their Corrida has been cancelled (due to weather conditions?).

The taxi to Aire took 20 minutes. On the way we saw perhaps 10 walkers in all bravely leaning into the rain as they battled along the main road. At least they have avoided going across country.

We don't see Aire at its best in the rain and our very modest hotel (Les Plantanes) doesn't help. We stroll into town for lunch and pass over the river in full flood. Nice lunch at the Hotel/Restaurant Chez l'Huzet and then back to our rooms. Clare stars by producing cups of tea all round from her travelling kettle. To break up dull afternoon there were nice cheerful messages from:

- Pat who is doing 12 hours babysitting including a trip to Whipsnade Zoo while T&R are at a wedding
- Ben wanting to know precisely WHAT cleaning of the house was required before our return
- Nicki phoned her parents (finally) from Cambodia to say all well.

Eauze to Nogaro 20k

An excellent day. Hopes were not high in terms of the weather forecast and indeed as a precaution we departed from the hotel in capes and a fine mist. This followed a quick and simple breakfast on a tray. Clare having effectively destroyed the soft furnishings in her room was anxious to be away before having to account for her actions.

We went out of town by a radial road and were soon onto tracks between fields of vines in a gently undulating landscape. By 10am sunshine was breaking through and capes were doffed. Progress was easy and enjoyable. By 11 o'clock we reached the small town of Manciet where, parallel to the old high street a major road zooms through contemptuously. The Bar Monique served 4 decent cafes au lait. I took a picture of the village bullring somewhat incongruously sited next to a statue of Our Lady Queen of Peace, although in fairness the bullring is used for "racing rather than killing". The small ancient and tidy village church keeps the unwashed pilgrim at bay via a separate entrance into a windowed lobby. We stocked up for lunch and made our way out of town by back roads across open fields. We paused briefly at the old and simple church of St Jean Baptiste de la Commanderie de Sainte Christie de l'Armagnac. Although seemingly little used people obviously choose to be buried there and many of the family graves were regularly used, some with 'Italian' names. I wonder if this is all to do with the Knights of Malta?

After a nice picnic lunch by a little stream in open countryside we reached Nogaro without further delay. The road to our hotel (Solenca) avoided the town centre and was on a long dry busy road east of the town close to what sounded like a racing car circuit/test track. The hotel is modern and efficient with a 'southern, other' twist. Rooms and baggage ready. Creanciales duly stamped and breakfast arranged for 7am with sandwich lunches ordered to take. The girls relaxed by the pool until driven inside by drops of rain. Little did we know!

Thunder then arrived to add to the motor racing whines and the occasional light aircraft landing at the aerodrome next door. Peaceful it is not! Before supper we had a drink with a solitary Norwegian. Not only has he been out of action for 3 days with a bad foot (we had seen him in Eauze) but he had also gone 10k in the wrong direction because he had no map and relied on the balises - but went backwards!

It is now raining very heavily and it remains to be seen what conditions are like tomorrow for our final day this year. We have not seen anything of Nogaro.

Montreal du gers to Eauze 17k

Madam Florisonne had breakfast ready for us at 7.30am - homemade breads, fresh yogurt/white cheese and 3 sorts of jam. She then drove us back into town without question or discussion; obviously the norm. It was a very straight forward day in pleasant sunshine that got hotter as it moved on. Our initial route was through fields of vines and cereals and generally dry underfoot. One farmer protected his cherry crop from the ravening passing hordes by posting a notice claiming Chernobyl pollution. Liz is suffering from her knees and her toes look satisfyingly dreadful.

After a midmorning stop by the little church of Lamothe we were thenceforth effectively on the former railway track all the way to Eauze (pronounced "é - ós") and perhaps beyond. This was shady and flat but dull as there was little to see other than our green tunnel. We dropped off the path by a former railway bridge to have lunch in a nearby field. Roquefort cheese, and a little doze.

Passing a large factory complex we arrived at the small shabby town of Eauze by 2.30. After visiting the tourist office for creanciale stamping we had a beer - "just the one" - at the Bar Commerciale where the host was even more cheering than the Italian opera arias he was playing at full blast. we duly found the Hotel Triana and installed ourselves. After a shower we had a late afternoon stroll to see the sites. The cathedral which seemed to be built from rubble and old bricks was a sad sight and indeed may well be falling down as arches and pillars inside were encased in protective support. So we retreated back to the Bar Commerciale to try a white (or pink) Armagnac "floc" as an aperitif. The cheerful host made us smile as he examined and exclaimed over Liz's blisters and we signed his book of comments. Many had enjoyed his welcome.

Supper at the hotel was simple - vegetable soup and bull steaks - posters on the walls showed that we are getting into bull-fighting country and that Eauze is proud of its new bull ring (and rugby team). Tomorrow's forecast says 'thunderstorms'.

Condom to Montreal du Gers 17k

The promise is for a short but hot day. We were up by 7.10am having never fully mastered the air conditioning. Breakfast at 7.40. All a bit clattery and grabby. Geoff has donated to Des, possibly on a temporary basis, his rather impressive 'plumber's belt' which enables the wearer to festoon himself with assorted necessities with ease of access while walking - e.g.mosquito repellent (hammer?), emergency flares, wine bottle etc. It also means that Des is selflessly prepared to carry more than his fair share of the picnic.

We were away by 8.15 initially along the Baise river bank and past the Church of St Jacques complete with statue of St Joseph. There was quite a number of other pilgrims walking today's stretch. It was foggy-ish until midday but excellent sunshine as we approached Montreal du Gers. The going was flat and dry underfoot.

We did a detour via the fortified village of Larresingle, the former home of the bishops of Condom built in the monolithic monumentalist style of the Popes at Avignon. It has been somewhat 'Disneyfied' by a committee of American 'friends' who felt it needed restoration. We paused for a coffee nearby after Clare had persuaded the cafe that they were open. Next door was a recreation of medieval siege weapons to complete the day for a family outing. Later a further off-piste diversion took us to the simple Eglise de Routges. Here the 'untouchable' Cagots who lived locally as pariahs had their own small side-door as a separate entrance to the church. Nor were they permitted to share the cemetery. Needs a bit of unpicking that!

Lunch was a picnic on the headland of a field of vines beneath an oak tree - goats cheese, pate, tomatoes and cucumber + a half-glass of red. Perfect!

An hour later we arrived in Montreal du Gers. Unfortunately our gite, run by Mon & Mme Florisonne was another 3k the other side but after a call from the Tourist Office they were very happy to collect us. Meanwhile we spent 10 minutes visiting the adjoining museum of Roman remains excavated locally.

Madame Florisonne (the name of their place is 'Domaine du fils de Fleur'. Geddit?) collected us in a capacious van and chatted amiably as she told us of the 25 foreign couples from all over Europe and beyond who had bought houses locally in the past few years. She and her husband (Belgian, previously worked for Nestle) had settled here 10 years ago and built their wine-producing smallholding from scratch. I never did find out why they also kept a large monkey in an equally large cage. We duly installed ourselves in our allotted rooms. Ours was the terra cotta chambre.

It continued to be a baking afternoon. Little lizards scuttered round the outside walls. Liz did a big washing job on socks and shirts to take advantage of the drying conditions but even by six o'clock it was still too hot to sit in the direct sunshine.

Supper was overwhelming. Our hosts were most enthusiastic and proudly plied us with food and the various wines they had made although despite prompting they would not sit down with us. There was a huge mixed salad based on gesiers and much else, followed by pork hock x 4 in a carroty juice and creme caramel to finish. Meanwhile Eric held forth at length on his wine, his neighbours, French politics, Europeanization and much else besides. Our language skills struggled to keep up but he seemed content to drive on and was extremely entertaining and most amiable. Nice meal. Nice company. And afterwards a stroll in the dewy meadow.

La Romieu to Condom 16k

Our shutter on the window and the blind on the Velux window proved effective and it was 6.45am before we felt it appropriate to recognize the dawn. We made our own breakfast at 7.30. Nice homemade malty bread with 3 sorts of jam although none readily identifiable. One of the two ladies who runs the place turned up with a wheelbarrow to take our bags across the lawn to Reception for later collection. We left the place spic 'n span and took photographs of each other By common consent our stay here has been most enjoyable with every effort made on the part of the owners. We were then driven into town to continue our walk and to have pointed out to us the many houses bought locally by foreigners.

Today's walk was across country in easy stages, mostly by farm paths and through woodlands. All downhill parts that were wooded were universally slippery and dangerous.As our good deed for the day we helped a lady from Frankfurt, travelling solo, over some stepping stones. We passed a large wild-fowl lake not shown on the map.

Arrived in Condom for lunch - a simple menu du jour in a roadside cafe, steak/frites & Tarte Basque (almonds). We then found our way to the The Hotel Continental, down by the river bridge with the day full of southern sunshine, heat and shade. The hotel has a nice garden at the rear for eating with yellow umbrellas and blue shutters. We had a cup of tea there. Our room is cool with white walls. We took an afternoon stroll to buy tomorrow's fruit (we are all becoming a bit obsessed by the lack of fresh vegetables in our diet). Des noted the 280 names on the War Memorial for a town of 8,000. We inspected the Cathedral of St Peter where the magnificent Gothic tracery has not been overly restored. In a remarkable exercise of civic priorities the cloisters, with beautiful fluted pillars, have been surfaced over and now house the Hotel de Ville while a large tent like structure covering the space provides an assembly area for functions.

Yet again the supper menu was duck although this time the joints were baked slowly in spicy herbs. Liz was delighted to get an omelette instead. The promised lemon tart did not materialize. We sat outside to eat and it was all very pleasant. We forewent an Armagnac despite being in the centre of its production!

Lectoure to La Romieu 19k

Downstairs with bags by 7.15 rearing to go, for a leisurely breakfast. The girls who served breakfast also do the rooms and work the till for checking out. Multi-tasking gems! On the road by 8.15 down some sloping side streets to get below the town. Before we struck the first balise one man without a map lost confidence as to the direction and then we came to THE MUD. We had talked to some people yesterday who had done this leg in reverse and they had spoken of SEVERE MUD INTERLUDES. They were right. Today we crossed the river Gers in the Départment of Gers. After a severe muddy rise to a ridge we sat on a convenient stone seat outside a lovely house at Espasot and ate our strawberries and very nice too.

Plenty of useful agriculture today. Rather more sunflowers than hitherto as we get further south, with different fields at different stages of progress. we saw a fine crop-sprayer on a tractor unfolding its long arms like a 'Transformer' that Billy would have paid good money to see. At Marsolan village we met a charming bunch of school kids out for a walk under the nominal control of three ladies who found it more difficult going up a steep hill than did their charges. But we had a spring in our step too, particularly after we stopped for water and chewy bars and the rest of the strawberries.

Another hour and we passed the Chapelle d'Abrin in the company of a tiny solitary female walker who we decided was probably a Swiss nun in mufti. She was very friendly and certainly Swiss. She had started from Zurich, wearing trainers, and reckoned that she was another 9 days from the Spanish border with a further 30 days walking in Spain. The Chapelle was formerly of the Knights of St John but is now a private house and we could only admire some architectural features from outside. It marks the spot where the Puy (and Zurich!) route meets up with the Rocamadour route. Indeed La Romieu is allegedly more related to the Rocamadour route than to ours but forms a convenient stop for us before Condom.

Lunch was on a headland by a lake and many others, no doubt heading for La Romieu and with not much further to go, felt it an appropriate place to pause. We had then some brutal upwards mud - it would have been quite impossible downwards - and some more dry high fields before we reached our destination, spot on at 2pm. We failed to visit the notable botanical gardens on the way into town - where there was little activity. We called at the tourist office to find out that our Gite was in fact a couple of kilometers out of town: we could have saved ourselves some mileage had we simply come in a different way which actually went past it. But she kindly offered to telephone and our hostess, Christine, arrived minutes later to drive us there with great cheerfulness. She couldn't do enough for us and the gite is excellent, clean spacious and comfortable restored farm buildings on 30 hectares of land including a lake. I made tea while Clare got the washing machine going and Liz did a great job on the muddy boots with bucket and brushes. I suspect we all fancy sitting and sleeping rather than swimming.

Christine has offered to drive us into town for supper and to collect us if we wish. Des and i did the 1k walk round the lake. we watched what we thought were a couple of badgers but they turned out to be a large colony of semi-tame coypu. Clare read us her description of our 20 mile walk last year into Cajarc. I distinctly remember being very tired and footsore and feel much the same today!

Supper menu tonight (and probably most nights here) was simple and local: gesiers salad, confit de canard and desert. We finished with a glass of Armagnac and walked home in the scents of the evening. A quick detour to inspect the substantial War Memorial and the separate but equal Memorial to the Resistance. Lots of roses growing well throughout the town (and cats of course) but we never did make it (this time!) to the Botanical gardens.

Lectoure Rest Day

We woke gently. The night had been warm until we learnt how to both turn off the airconditioner/heater and open the electric window. the local bells, double rations plus the quarter hours, had restarted at 7am. We went for breakfast at 9. Fresh orange juice and tea in teapots with a serve yourself delicate buffet: yogurt or white cheese, good bread and mini pastries, thin country ham & excellent lardy duck rillettes. Geoff had been out early for the newspapers and we all went for a stroll after breakfast to the Tourist Office for creanciale stamping, and the cathedral church - big for a small place. The town of Lectoure is overall rather pleased with itself. We had a coffee and chatted with an Australian/German couple who had had "two dry days since Puy" but who had avoided yesterdays rain by stopping at Castet-Arrouy.

At eleven o'clock Geoff and Sue's taxi arrived to take them back to Lascabanes to pick up their vehicle. It is sad to see them go particularly as they have not seen the walk in good circumstances. Nevertheless the professed to enjoy it - masochists or what! Later we had a simple lunch in a small bar and then back to wash out some shirts/socks and watch the rugby from Twickenham: Wasps v. Leicester (decisively beaten). James had been to see the match but texted to say he was stuck on the M25 on his way back to Hull. It was a nice restful day but too cold for swimming in the hotel pool. The hotel is much less busy than yesterday with fewer staff on duty.

Supper was simple: salmon followed by chicken but nice and relaxing. The church tower from our bedroom skylight tonight is now floodlit. We are prepared for tomorrow - lunch is boughten and includes cherries and strawberries.

Auvillar to Lectoure 33k

Thankfully the day dawned grey but dry although our host was suspiciously non-committal as to the likelihood of rain. But he WAS a bit harassed, doing breakfast (excellent selection of jams) by himself and seeing his two young sons off to school.

The walking today was essentially "flat with undulations" - a great deal of it alongside roads in paths established by the crops. We were in serious farming country, mainly arable, mainly cereals. The folk we had seen being shepherded via a minibus before Moissac seemed to arrive from nowhere to do this stretch on foot - and some of them carrying scallop shells! We arrived in St Antoine in precisely the two hours the guide book specified. It is a quiet place with a large traditional gite d'etape, six beds to a room. The local chateau was a hospital in the middle ages set up to treat people suffering from "St Antony's Fire" otherwise known as ergotism, i.e.gangrene caused by eating cereals contaminated with fungus.

The Deprtement of Gers adopts colourful enamelled baslises and these led within an hour to Flamerans and then another hour to Miradoux where sadly the promised cafe was shut. So we sat on a bench as the Saturday Farmers Market packed up for a brief rest and drink of water, refilled our bottles and pressed on for lunch at Caslet Arrony. Some walkers would be staying in the pilgrims' "Refuge" there but all we wanted was the promised picnic site for a late lunch. Unfortunately the village was 'en fete' around the be-ribboned war memorial and their communal meal was making use of the picnic tables. So as we were not invited we walked through and lunched in a field by the road. It was fine - including nice tomatoes and oranges. You do have to try hard in France to keep up your quota of fresh fruit 'n veg.

Then on by paths between fields and roads. 10k to go. In an hour it started to rain as we followed wooded paths - it would all be SO much more enjoyable in the sun. We got ever wetter as we were only wearing capes - because of the warmth! - so trousers got soggy. Sue in particular seemed to find the final miles tough but battled on bravely and in fact we all suffered one way or another. Clare appreciated the distraction of my 15 minute cheering recitation of the 'Cremation of Sam McGee' as we marched through mud. But Lectoure was slow to approach. Ben had been instructed to text Cup Final goals (Man U) but not even any diversion there!

We finally "swam" uphill to Lectoure past extensive cemeteries. The Hotel de Bastard well signposted and reached down narrow picturesque back streets - a solid stone block with fortified gates. The young lady at reception (it is a respectable sort of place) was less than pleased to watch us drip on the mat but she resolutely overcame her dismay to go through a lengthy procedure of putting pairs of wet boots and capes into and out of numbered black bags to go in the dry/boiler room. We were then instructed in the correct use of the 'electric windows' before being finally dispatched to the second floor. Our bags had arrived "at 10am" but is was a long haul to take them up the fine old oak staircase. Our room was small but adequate, in the eaves, with a skylight - electric- from which we could just see part of the church spire! But a bath!! While we washed and changed and nursed our feet we saw on a badly tuned TV Man U lose by a late goal in extra time. Ben, as a neutral, subsequently reported a poor match. Nevertheless we gathered in the bar, which was cosy, as Clare had promised some months ago to buy Champagne whether Man U won or not. So that was nice. Then in for supper.

The hotel was full with many serious French weekenders. A striking aristocratic gentle man with pink trousers, a very large nose and a very young wife insisted on holding the door open for us all but his refined equilibrium was obviously disturbed by the state into which we had allowed our feet to deteriorate. Three dining rooms with high ceilings and big windows. A full team of staff included an efficient maitre d', a harassed jobbing waiter with all the skills but little charm, a work-experience wine-pourer in a dinner jacket, and a perky young lady with a short skirt and lots of energy. Our meal included an amuse bouche (liver on a stick plus something else deep fried), a slice of chunky terrine in aspic with a herby vinegar sauce, a nice piece of cod with black pepper crust on a disc of risotto. Some had cheese and the desert was an elaborate fruity souffle with Armagnac and a red fruit sauce. The rest of the room were taking their food, and manners, seriously and towards 9.30, last orders, the bus brigade trouped in all clean and dry to celebrate the end of their holiday.

Moissac to Avillar 20k

Because it was to be a short day (20k = 4 1/2 hours) we agreed to leave late and it was gone 9 when we left, due east along the south bank of the canal "de Golfech", part of the taming of the Tarn and the Garonne rivers following immense floods in former times. The rivers accompanied us on the other side of the path. This was straight and flat, surfaced and shaded. Vast areas of fruit orchards surrounded us in the rich alluvial soil as the sky turned from grey cloud to blue sunshine.

We stopped for coffee in a tacky bar in Malause and subsequently for lunch on the terrace of a friendly bar in quiet Pommeric. They did not do food but were happy to supply beer while we made our own sandwiches from provisions bought next door. We chatted to an English couple who had done "parts" of the walk and were now on a canal boat holiday.This is part of the canal route from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean.

From Pommeric we walked back across the agricultural plain - strawberries being picked - to the very prettified/over-restored village of Espalais. We passed some who were doing (some of?) the walk on horseback. We then passed by bridge over the very slow-moving Garonne (which is obviously carefully controlled via canals etc) into Gascony.

Then a a short vicious climb up to Auvillar town centre, through the charming market square with a distinctive circular market building, to find our Hotel de l'Horloge, inevitably next to the clock tower. The hotel was closed until 4pm so we had a cold drink nearby under a Mulberry tree while we waited. When we got our rooms we showered and rested until the bags arrived and afterwards strolled round the town - it likes to be known as one of the 100 most beautiful villages in France. The church was not very interesting but the town was an immaculate exhibit with every square metre tidily restored. We went to the opening of an exhibition of local art, but "13c Local Floorboard Dipped in Lead" didn't do much for me.

Dinner was quite elaborate: Fois gras and Prune Pate, Cassoulet baked in individual bowls, Strawberries (local - we had passed them being picked!) and cream. Interesting local wines. After some cards we were all ready for bed with a long day ahead tomorrow.

Lauzerte to Moissac 24.5k Ascension Thursday

A long day. I feel good now after a friendly supper but from 9-4 it was GRIM! As promised we had light rain as we started and pretty well non-stop all day. After leaving town we followed four quad bikes up a forested path now reduced to clinging mud. Basically for the first 10k today whenever we were off road it was sticky, skiddy and dangerous. We were effectively moving at half speed which threatened to turn a six hour day into 12 hours. Our wet weather gear was generally effective although visibility from the hoods was not great. You really got the impression that the route had been put together just to avoid the main roads - there is a D road virtually direct from Lauzerte to Moissac. There was really little of interest or variety as we walked along farm tracks and a succession of tough muddy climbs. We bumped into Bob from Worcester from time to time and he took our photo at the '400k from Puy' mark.

We struggled into Durfort Lacapelette and stopped for coffee in the local bar - we were not especially welcome in our bedraggled state. Having spoken in passing about conditions to the English proprietor of the local St Martin gite we resolved to stick to the road for the rest of the day. As it was a Bank Holiday the roads were not particularly busy although visibility was not good. Meanwhile I wrote down the telephone number of the local taxi - just in need. We also put our jackets on under our cagoules as by now there was the risk of actually getting too cold.

At one point we were intermingled with a larger group of walkers who seemed to be under the direct guidance of a travelling leader. For example they were directed to a nearby barn for a prearranged lunch. We meanwhile stopped on a nearby bridge parapet in a light drizzle for a wet sandwich. And then basically more dull plodding through wretched suburbs into Moissac by about 3.30pm, earlier than previously hoped.The route took us directly to our hotel,Le Chapon Fin, in the town centre behind the distinctive and very Italianate, market building. We hobbled in and up for hot showers and a lie down until our baggage arrived about 5.30. We put on dry clothes to go for a stroll. Des proposed a visit to the splendid Abbey church and the local canal "going over the river". The latter we never found but the church was interesting with the interior completely covered in a Moorish(?) pattern of grey trellis on yellow, heavily and regulerly restored where the passing millions insist on touching such unusual decoration. After a dull and depressing day the carved statues in the church, particularly of some earlier travellers, were colourful and uplifting.

We had our steak/frites supper in the brasserie attached to the hotel as sleep beckoned. The girl on the front desk, who had been most helpful in arranging for us to hang all our wet clobber in the boiler room to dry, assured us that a) tomorrow would be dry and warm, and b) the route along the canal path would be peaceful, shaded and dry underfoot.

Lascabanes to Lauzerte 21.5k

Up on time after a restful night although the new guttering around the gite earned its keep with fairly continuous rain. Plenty of church bells at 7am and we were downstairs with bags by 7.30. A few others were up before us for the self service breakfast - all heading for an early start, perhaps to avoid the rain. Some hope! For the first time on our trip we broke out the cagoules & other wet weather gear and soon very much looked the part of the Winterreise wanderer. Geoff in particular achieved a strikingly gaunt appearance in his hooded cape - and shorts.

On the road by 8.15am. Sue and I chatted music for 1 1/2 hours and what would otherwise have been a long plod in the wet passed quickly. The plastics kept one adequately dry, certainly in a gentle drizzle. Although you get condensation, or even osmosis, particularly when your inner layer is just a shirt it was generally felt that this was the cooler option. Quite a steep rise in the mud soon after starting and then a steady flat stretch to Montcuq. We passed a minor miracle at a farm where a stand allowed us to help ourselves to excellent 'miel et citron' lemonade and where we bought a bottle of the local rosé. We could have legitimately bypassed Montcuq but we went in for a cup of coffee, and for some an early ham baguette: required to remove boots before entering cafe!

We pressed on in the rain, off road, and not long after we had a brutal steep slippery climb in the mud. At one point a blue rope was provided by way of handrail but it was really hard going with much use of stick - two would have been better. On the plateau we stopped shortly afterwards more for a rest than lunch, quite exhausted by climbing in those conditions. Some had bread and cheese and the rosé wine proved surprisingly good and refreshing. After resting, and mirabile dictu the rain stopped, we pressed on and we could walk in shirtsleeves.

The day alternated between plateaus and the river valleys of the Merdanson, and the Lendou, ultimately tributaries of the Barguelonne and then the Garonne. There were lots of small ascents and descents and meanderings and progress was surprisingly slow in these conditions. The agriculture was noticeably better than recently, not just stronger vines and fields of sunflowers but many other fields of grain, and even a good crop of onions.The final mile or two into the fortified town of Lauzerte, which we could see on its hilltop from afar, was on hard road. The town is dramatically located and is another beautifully restored gem. Our Hotel du Quercy was fine, located outside the walls. It was run by a young man whose wife runs an English bookshop in Cahors and he served us excellent cold beers initially and subsequently an entirely enjoyable supper he prepared himself: good vegetable and bean soup, salmon quiche, pork chop, ice cream.



Des and I had a quick tour up in the medieval town centre, - like a charming but empty museum or beautiful film set. The square had been restored with cobble stones in an amusing way.






But....another major issue with Tranbaggage. Our bags did not appear until 7.30pm after many phone calls, promises and excuses. Even the hotel manager was offering us the use of his aged parents to collect them from Lascabanes and bring them over. He himself was driving to Toulouse airport in the morning and he offered to take them on himself to Moissac, an offer retracted only after he saw their number and weight. We had to tell Alexandra that Tranbaggage were in danger of spoiling the trip. She has elicited a promise that tomorrow will be better.More rain is forecast.

Cahors to Lascabanes 23k

A warm restless night with pulse racing - possibly due to last night's Aligot/saucisson but more probably entirely understandable anxiety about the morrow! Neither of us slept well and we were downstairs, with our bags, by 7.30. Nice breakfast - all the usuals. The newspapers were full of Sarkosy's proposed shakeup of the civil service. Bread for lunch was collected from around the corner (we had bought the rest of our provisions yesterday) but in a rush of novelty we also bought six small fruit tarts for lunch. We then decided they would never stand the bouncing and so we packed them in our luggage to access them later for a teatime treat.

We were on the road by 8.15, past the water cisterns to the base of the cliff by the old bridge. It was just as steep as we remembered but fortunately not too much of it - 45 big steps + 24 more and then a slope to the top before we had the reward of a splendid farewell view of Cahors as we paused by an elaborate metal cross that resembled a Channel 4 logo pylon. The route was fairly familiar in content and challenge. With six of us there was plenty of chat. We came across perhaps 30 other walkers today including a young Australian couple and a Frenchman with bad blisters.

It was soft going following recent rain along generally wide scrubby tracks. We met very little by way of habitation or serious agriculture until we got to our destination. Such vineyards as we passed were old and dessicated and there was more of the stubby oakwood, pollarded this time and covered with lots of winter lichen and moss. There was however plenty of birdsong and lots of honeysuckle and wild roses.

It was a 23k day, plenty for starters. It would have been feasible, if tough, to press on another 2 1/2 hours to Montcuq which is the recommended destination but we were not yet in full walking mode.

Lascabanes was as charming a place as Geoff had said. The gite was small, immaculate and unmanned. The lady manager was not on duty again until 5pm. Rooms, or indeed individual beds were assigned on the whiteboard in the lobby but sadly the separate rooms we had booked were assigned elsewhere. It looked as though I would be having to share a room with 4 somewhat surprised elderly Frenchwomen. The phone in the lobby did not work so I had to go up the hill with Geoff to raise a signal for my mobile to put a call through to the agents. The Todds' bags had also not arrived and it subsequently transpired that they had been taken on to Montcuq. All was all resolved in the end but it caused a certain amount of ill will all round which rather spoilt things.

While waiting for supper we attended Mass in the church next door said by the resident village hermit priest. He offered to wash our feet but with typical reserve we declined. We had to leave our names and places of origin in his record book so that we might be prayed for the following day as we were on our journey. Rain is forecast. Supper was plentiful and well done, around a communal table with our fellow guests.

Return to Cahors

We flew back to Toulouse with Easijet this year and indeed Liz and Clare reckoned that at least one of the crew had been on last year's flight home. Most were eastern European. You kept expecting 'Scooch' to burst down the aisle following their abortive efforts on Eurovision last night.

Using our initiative we had decided to "catch the train" from Toulouse to Cahors now that we knew our way around. It wasn't the best way. Our bags were a bit heavy and we seldom found trolleys. The bus from airport to railway station was OK but the train was not straightforward. We had to take a little shuttle train to Montauban and change. But then it transpired that our connection from there to Cahors was to be replaced by a bus and that took a long time to make its way to all the intermediate train stations. Anyway, you live and learn and the bus driver did agree to drop us off close to the Hotel Chartreuse which was very helpful. We arrived at 2.45pm.Little had changed from last year.

Geoff and Sue Todd arrived to join us. They are going to walk the first week with us this year and hopefully will subsequently want to join us for more. They have left their new Campervan at Lascabanes to use it for the first night of the trip as accommodation there is restricted. Geoff reports that Lascabanes is a pretty village but that our gite is "modest". This is a "non-standard" stop on the Worldwalks itinerary to give us a starting day of no more than 22k.