25 May 2007

Eauze to Nogaro 20k

An excellent day. Hopes were not high in terms of the weather forecast and indeed as a precaution we departed from the hotel in capes and a fine mist. This followed a quick and simple breakfast on a tray. Clare having effectively destroyed the soft furnishings in her room was anxious to be away before having to account for her actions.

We went out of town by a radial road and were soon onto tracks between fields of vines in a gently undulating landscape. By 10am sunshine was breaking through and capes were doffed. Progress was easy and enjoyable. By 11 o'clock we reached the small town of Manciet where, parallel to the old high street a major road zooms through contemptuously. The Bar Monique
served 4 decent cafes au lait. I took a picture of the village bullring somewhat incongruously sited next to a statue of Our Lady Queen of Peace, although in fairness the bullring is used for "racing rather than killing". The small ancient and tidy village church keeps the unwashed pilgrim at bay via a separate entrance into a windowed lobby. We stocked up for lunch and made our way out of town by back roads across open fields. We paused briefly at the old and simple church of St Jean Baptiste de la Commanderie de Sainte Christie de l'Armagnac. Although seemingly little used people obviously choose to be buried there and many of the family graves were regularly used, some with 'Italian' names. I wonder if this is all to do with the Knights of Malta?

After a nice picnic lunch by a little stream in open countryside
we reached Nogaro without further delay. The road to our hotel (Solenca) avoided the town centre and was on a long dry busy road east of the town close to what sounded like a racing car circuit/test track. The hotel is modern and efficient with a 'southern, other' twist. Rooms and baggage ready. Creanciales duly stamped and breakfast arranged for 7am with sandwich lunches ordered to take. The girls relaxed by the pool until driven inside by drops of rain. Little did we know!

Thunder then arrived to add to the motor racing whines and the occasional light aircraft landing at the aerodrome next door. Peaceful it is not! Before supper we had a drink with a solitary Norwegian. Not only has he been out of action for 3 days with a bad foot (we had seen him in Eauze) but he had also gone 10k in the wrong direction because he had no map and relied on the balises - but went backwards!

It is now raining very heavily and it remains to be seen what conditions are like tomorrow for our final day this year. We have not seen anything of Nogaro.

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